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Author:Chris SchultePublish date:Sep 5, 2019
When I was a brand-new climber, my transition from gym to crag happened in my first week of rock climbing. My friend and mentor Seiji took me to a climbing gym whereI did a few toprope climbs and was instantly hooked. Seiji said, “If you think this is cool, wait until I take you outside on real rock.” The following week, I found myself standing at the bottom of a climb on the Austin Greenbelt called Meet the Flintstones. After I toproped it without falling, Seiji asked me if I wanted to learn how to lead. My first question was, If I fall, will I hit the ground? After a few minutes of Seiji’s instruction, I tied in and led my first route—as my second pitch ever.
Looking back, my rapid progression was the equivalent of throwing someone in the deep end of the pool to teach them how to swim. In those days, there was so much I didn’t know—and worse yet, didn’t know that I didn’t know. I was blissfully ignorant. After decades of climbing and teaching gym-to-crag skills, I’ve learned the importance of teaching three main skills—lead belaying, hanging and clipping quickdraws, and cleaning an anchor—while still standing on the ground. I show my students each skill, and then have them demonstrate it until they can prove competency before I turn them loose up on the rock.
If you have a lead-belay certification from your gym, then you probably already know the basic mechanics. For those looking to take that skill outside, there are a few extra things to be aware of. To begin, you won’t be standing on a level surface like padded flooring—we need to take a few extra measures to ensure we’re using best practices. When you arrive at the crag, take a minute and survey the scene, find an open climb, and if there are other people there, ask them if there’s anyone else waiting. If you get the green light, commence as outlined below:
To simulate lead belaying, you can practice with the first draw clipped and work on feeding out slack for the entire length of the rope.
When you’re climbing indoors, the draws are already clipped into the lead bolts, but when you climb outdoors, you’ll often need to equip the route with your own quickdraws—to “hang the draws,” in climber-speak. Outside, you’ll thus want to carry a couple more quickdraws than you think you might need, in case you miscounted, need to extend any to minimize rope drag, or accidently drop one. Above all, the most important thing to remember is to get the rope into the carabiner quickly—and in the correct configuration.
To simulate clipping, have a friend hold up a quickdraw so you can practice clipping it all four ways.
This is a question that comes up with many of the clients I guide: Is it better to rappel or lower when cleaning an anchor? The argument you’ll hear most often is that the hardware will wear out more quickly if you lower off. My answer to that is that your life is not replaceable, but the hardware is—in fact, very easily. Moreover, rappelling is statistically far more dangerous than being lowered because you have more steps, and more instances of connection to and disconnection from the rope.
There are several reasons I always start out by teaching the lowering method. One, it’s only one new skill (cleaning process) versus two (cleaning process, plus rappelling). Two, by lowering you will be on belay throughout the process, which puts the responsibility in the hands of both climber and belayer to double-check each other. And three, it’s simply safer—there’s no question about that.
There are many variables at play when it comes to anchor cleaning, including the condition of the anchor hardware (chains or rings) and how the toprope anchor is attached (two quickdraws, slings with locking carabiners, etc). Check out this video on a few of the variations and methods for cleaning an anchor:
As you practice on your own, keep the following key points in mind:
The best progression with anchor-cleaning is to practice at home or on the ground (many popular crags have practicing stations these days) so you can focus on the steps in a comfortable learning environment. If you don’t have that option, you can make an anchor board out of a wood plank and the hardware that you can hang up anywhere. I always take one of these teaching tools along when teaching a gym-to-crag curriculum.
Lastly, a few dos and don’ts regarding cliff-side behavior:
Do minimize your impact. Keep your things neatly contained and not crowding others. Keep the chatter and noise level to a minimum. Lastly, as a dog owner and lover, as much as it pains me to say this, leave the pooches at home. There are enough distractions at the crag already.
Don’t hog the crag. As fun as it is for you to go climbing outdoors with all your friends, it isn’t fun for other people out there trying to do the same. Break into smaller group—ideally teams no larger than four people per route—and play nicely with others.
Don’t toprope through fixed hardware. Run the rope through your own hardware at the top of the climb, especially if all your buddies are going to do toprope laps. You don’t want to wear out the anchors any faster than necessary, though it is OK for the last person to lower off the climb.